I got your instructions on changing the color wheel in my Samsung DLP TV #HLN4365W. I followed the instructions and pictures which were quite good to follow. Got to the part at the end of taking out the cable with the one blue & two white wires. I ended up braking the clip off the board. There is another clip below the one that broke off. Can this be used instead? If not can I go go further and replace the board? What will be the cost of the board? Cost wise I have to see if it pays to go further or buy a new one. Have had the present one for a number of years. Should of followed the suggestion of one of your readers and taken it off the color wheel.
I too did a bad thing regarding the blue and white wire. In trying to pry it out, I pryed the whole connector off the board. Am I doomed?
Hi Carl-- i just did this today... any luck.. what did you have to do..i too broke the connector! :( rroste@g[email protected]
Hey, Just found this site and hoping someone can help. I also pried the entire white connector off the circuit board when changing the color wheel. Hoping Carl or William can share their solution (new board? price, etc..)
Thanks
Hi lance-- i just did this today... any luck.. what did you have to do..i too broke the connector! :( [email protected]
I just sucessfully replaced my color wheel in my Samsung HLR6768w, Thanks! Only problem is, the color is little off. I try to adjust levels and the 'blue' won't adjust. The others, in the color weakness adjsutment, vary the level, the blue does nothing. I can see blue in the picture, the picture really isnt that bad, it's just a little off. When there a face with a spotlight on it, like in 'cops', the face kind of washes out. Any ideas anybody?
I replaced my Samsung 46-inch DLP color wheel and all of the people on the screen were blue-ish in color. There's a jumper on the board in front that you have to pull out to correct the problem when you go from a ball-bearing type color wheel to the air-bearing. Check out this site to see it:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/2008/09/26/replacement-of-the-samsung-color-wheel-bp96-00674a/
At first I ordered the wrong part for my Samsung 46-inch DLP. There are actually 2 different color wheels, depending on your chassis. There's an orange sticker inside the TV when you take off the big back plastic cover that will say L6 or L3. If you have an L6 chassis, make sure you get the BP96-01103A color wheel (and not the BP96-00674A which is for the L3 chassis). My TV worked fine for a day, then the picture started freezing up, sometimes with a green plaid pattern, which other posts indicate is probably a dmd or digital board issue ($400-$600). I sold my Samsung TV for parts today ($30), and have gone back to my old picture tube tv.
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Well over 100 people have commented on my post about changing your own Samsung DLP colorwheel. In all the feedback is a wealth of tips and tricks. I thought I'd capture and condense them here...
The dreaded blue-white wire that goes to the colorwheel: You cannot be careful enough removing it. I was able to get it out by prying it with jeweler's screwdriver.
If you're not careful, and cannot resist the temptation to pull on the wires, you will pull the wires out, leaving the plug behind. Resist, I repeat, RESIST pulling on the wires.
Some readers have had no problem getting the plug out at all.
Others have had to carve it out in several pieces.
Some report that a chip-puller (tweezers specially designed for pulling out integrated circuit chips) does the trick nicely.
Ed suggests, "when removing the brown and blue wire from the connector on top of the color wheel housing, remember to squeeze the white connector to release it"
The colorwheel screws: These screws can be hard to get at. Use a magnetic screwdriver to get them out and back in again.
Steve reports, "I was using a 8? #2 Phillips head screwdriver which happened to have enough ‘grip’ on the screws to lift them straight out of the holes in some of the tighter places without falling off and to replace them likewise. Didn’t need to use any tweezers with this particular screwdriver."
Extra Wire: Several readers reported that they had to remove an additional wire that the original instructions did not include:
"An additional wire to pull is the one that goes to a cooling fan on the right side. This was holding the unit from sliding out far enough."
Removing the color wheel cover: In some sets, the color wheel cover seems to be fastened in with sticky foam tape.
"The color wheel cover was very snug - leading me to believe there was a screw I was missing. After a bit of head scratching I just decided to put a little more force with some wiggling and the cover started to move - clear sailing from there."
See here for the full instructions on how to change your own Samsung DLP colorwheel